Archive for August, 2009

Slow motion with the Xh-A1 and the SGBlade

I always wanted to test out the slow mo capabilities of the XH-A1. After a bit of experimenting a few tips I found out are:

  • Shoot at 50i or 60i in NTSC land. Then convert to 50p in After Effects and that immediately gives you a 50% speed reduction without any temporal artifacts when you play it back at 25fps.
  • Shoot with a high shutter speed. I found out that too higher shutter speed will result in to choppy a playback. My default shutter for everything is 1/50 but if I’m looking at a 50% speed reduction then I’d goto 1/100, if I’m going for a 25% then it’s 1/200. Basic maths really.
  • For extra slow mo, use Twixtor on the 50p output and then experiment with the settings until the temporal artifacts become acceptable
  • Here’s the result. The max speed reduction I got down to was 12.5%. My shutter was at 1/350 which I think was too high but the results almost looks like something out of a phantom highspeed camera.

    M42 one by one

    Here’s a basic test showing off the FOV and image/color qualities of my different lenses. The only lenses missing is my 50mm industar macro lens which is on my DSLR and my 35mm F2 Super-Multi-Coated Takumar that is still on its way here from Canada.

    The new lenses that are in this vid is the 24mm Soligor and the 80-200mm Soligor zoom. Both lenses are pretty adequate for video uses. I got the zoom for a steal at 6.99 pound plus postage of eBay. Pretty good deal for a f3.5 constant aperture lens which will come in very handy for outdoors, daylight stuff.


    More macro love


    I was going to sell my Super Takumar 50mm lens but after shooting more with it, I just couldn’t let it go. I bought a Yashinon 50mm f1.4 lens to replace it as its a much sharper lens that reproduces more accurate colors. But it’s those ‘bad’ qualities of the Super Takumar that I love. It’s yellowish hue and the softness it brings to the image, makes it look a lot nicer! Check out the macro video I shot with the Super Takumar and a set of macro tubes with the Sgblade.


    Sgblade – New optics, the ins and the outs

    After just receiving the the optics upgrade for my Sgblade and installing it, I’ve noticed a couple of things.

    The Good
    I haven’t really tested it that much yet but the upgraded optics are supposed to greatly reduce chromatic aberation and improve edge to edge sharpness. Especially with cameras like the sony EX1/3 and panasonic hvx200. I did notice a bit of CA with my XHA1 on extremely contrasty shots with the old optics. It didn’t really bother me but the edge to edge was quite off putting, hence the purchase. I’ll have to do some test shots to see if these two areas are greatly improved.

    The Bad
    As with everything in life, there are always major tradeoffs. With the new optics I’ve noticed I no longer have the ability to zoom my camera all the way into the groundglass whilst maintaining sharp focus. This is especially useful for quick composition changes. With the new optics, I can only zoom in to about 83 before it goes out of focus. Massively disappointing for me. I zoomed all the way into the GG alot with the old optics and found it to be incredibly useful. Sure the more you zoom in the larger the grain appears but for footage meant to goto DVD or the web, the images came out fine.
    This is especially bothersome for me, so much so in fact that I’ll probably go back to the old optics for run and gun type situations such as weddings and other live events.

    In short it may have been another purchase decision I wish I hadn’t gone ahead with. Sure if I had an Ex1 and the CA problems were major then it would have been a good decision but with a XHA1, the problems weren’t that bad to begin with.

    Tubing the Blade

    Here’s another shoot using macro tubes on the sgblade. This time I used different lenses as follows.
    28mm vivitar f2
    50mm super takumar f1.4 (I’m selling this lens on ebay)
    Lit with my Swit s-2010 led light.

    Macro Tubing the Sgblade

    I’ve always wanted to shoot macro video. I can’t afford a decent macro lens so I bought a set of macro tubes of ebay for $10. After trying out a few different lenses, I found my 50mm Mamiya Sekor f2 had the best results with the Sgblade. It would flare up the least because the front lens element is recessed in quite a bit creating a hood. Sometimes I’m literally a few cms away from the subject.

    Edit: The Mamiya Sekor lens that I shot this vid with is now on eBay starting at $15au

    Pimped out XHA1

    The J-Rod Review

    One of the troubles of shooting live events with wireless mics and onboard camera lights is, your camera only comes with one shoe mount. What if besides the onboard light, I wanted to add a couple of wireless mic packs to the camera? There are quite a few mounting options out there ranging from ridiculously expensive Bracket 1s to relatively cheap hot shoe extenders.

    Pimped out XHA1

    Pimped out XHA1

    What I came across in my search for a mounting option is called the J-Rod. It simply consists of a aluminium pole with two cold shoes mounted to it. It’s this simplicity that makes the J-Rod work so well. You basically mount it in your camera’s microphone mount and then that’s it, you now have three times the mounting options. You can also mount a shockmount to your J-Rod and hey presto, you can now mount your shotgun mic to your camera and position it back enough so it won’t show up in your wide shots. The J-Rod is a great little mounting option that is also relatively cheap at $70US plus postage.

    J-Rod up close

    fader02

    Fader ND short review

    fader01

    Here’s a review of the Fader ND. Its a variable ND filter that you can put on your photo/video lenses so you can control the amount of light that passes through.

    In short, it’s awesome. Instead of carrying around a bunch of nd filters, you just carry one. I bought it to use on my m42 lenses for my Sgblade. Instead of relying on my camera’s (Xh-a1) 2 ND filters, iris, shutter speed settings to get a good exposure, I can just wack the Fader ND on the front of the lens and dial in the perfect exposure. It provides between 2 to 8 stops of filtering which is plenty. It has markings on the front spinning element thingy to tell you where you are at but its a bit off and the best way to use this thing is to just watch your monitor while you dial your exposure in.

    fader02

    A couple of negatives I’ve noticed with the Fader is that when you are at maximum ND stopping power and you point the lens at the sun, there appears to be a dark cross like artifact that appears. The other thing is it screws up my lens flares quite badly and makes them look quite artificial. Apart from those two things which I’d hardly ever encounter, it gets 2 thumbs up. The alternative is a Singh variable ND filter which is over 3 times the price. Sure its probably better made but image quality wise, I’m very happy with the Fader and can’t see how much better the Singh could possibly be.

    fader03

    I’ve heard that putting a ND filter on the front of the lens instead of relying on your camera’s nd filters provides a better image. If it’s true, then thats another bonus to using it and from some testing I’ve done, I think I can see the difference. Another bonus is that you can make your own lightning effects in camera. Check it out..

    faderlight

    I bought my Fader ND off of


    Home movies with the Sgblade

    Something I shot and edited over the Sunday/Monday weekend with the sgBlaaaade.

    Sgblade – More Tests

    This time I’m checking out how it performs in well lit conditions. Same lenses as before but with the added 28mm f2 Vivitar.
    Edited by my girlfriend who found all my test footage.